This new and improved enclosure is for the CR-10/10S V1, V2, and V3.It does not fit any of the other CR-10 models such as the CR-10 Pro, CR-10S4, CR-10S5, CRX, etc. Please see the product listing for other CR-10 models.
The CR-10/CR-10S is a pretty large printer for the money, but it lacks one of the things that separates a good printer from a great printer: an enclosure box/case. This lightweight enclosure was designed to mimic the look of the CR-10/10S, with matching black assembly pieces and cool see-through acrylic. They look like they were made for each other. Sure there are lots of DIY projects out there, but if you don't have the time, this is a cool-looking solution you can assemble in about an hour.
Adding a 3D UPfitters enclosure provides many benefits:
More flexibility to print different types of filaments, including ABS
Better quality prints because the ambient temperature is controlled
Fume filter to reduce smell or vent to the outside (sold separately)
Sturdy, thick, high-grade acrylic doors that allow easy access to the printer bed
These enclosures are easy to install and made for every day use. It's designed for easy filament changes and access to the bed and hot end through the front doors. In the rare case you can't access the printer adequately through the side or front doors, the whole thing is light enough to take off any time you want without removing any cables.
One unique feature of this enclosure is it uses a clever side door design where a small gap between the doors acts as a filament slit. This way you can use either a top-mounted or table-mounted spool holder, just like there was no enclosure at all.
3D Print Your Own Connector Pieces. Or Not.
A lot of customers prefer to print their own connector pieces themselves. We get it: you've got a great 3D printer, and it is itching to print things. No problem! The kit includes the STLs for all 3D printed parts. Typically it takes about 48 hours to print everything you'll need with a .4mm nozzle and .2mm layer height.
On the other hand, if you purchase the optional connector kit, all parts are 3D printed in the best quality American-made ABS. It not only will withstand the heat year after year, but it's also one of the most rigid plastics to add that will make the enclosure sturdier. We proudly use the best ABS filament you can buy from Atomic Filament in Indian
DON'T USE PLA!
The catch-22 is you need an enclosure to print ABS! If you don't already have an enclosure, you can make do with PETG. Just keep in mind that PETG is more flexible and will make the entire enclosure a little less rigid than if you had used ABS. If you still want to print your own parts, just remember that temperatures inside an enclosure will melt PLA, so you will get the best results with printing parts in a high-quality ABS.
Pro Quality American Made Acrylic
The panels are made in a factory in Ohio and cut on an American-built industrial laser, and then flat-packed for your assembly. All you need for assembly is just a hex wrench and a small Philips head screwdriver. (not included.)
All 3mm simply isn't sturdy enough for an enclosure this large.
6mm Front, 3mm Sides
The most popular model has a 6mm front and 3mm sides. The thicker front is a big improvement for the door. This configuration works great for customers who expect more heavy use such as libraries or schools.
6mm Front and Top, 3mm Sides
If you want to use 3Kg+ spools on top of the enclosure then the 6mm top upgrade is a good idea. This is the configuration we use in our print farm and it works great.
If you want to gain a couple of degrees of heat retention or intend to move your enclosure around a lot you can't go wrong with the 6mm all-around option.