The Ender 5 Plus is the larger, better cousin of the Ender 5. Gone is the cantilevered bed, replaced by dual Z-msotors with stabilizers on all for corners. Instead of manual bed leveling, the included BLTouch gives a perfect first layer every time.
But the part that's most exciting to use at 3DUPFitters is what's the same for the entire Ender series: they are perfect for enclosing in a box/case/cover. While keeping the electronics cool is problematic (more on that later) keeping the hot end at the top means a consistent enclosure temperature. As the printed piece gets larger, the previously printed section of the part moves lower, but the enclosure also heats up. In the end, it's much easier to print large parts in temperature-sensitive filament such as ABS while avoiding warping and cracking.
The biggest design challenge of enclosing the Ender 5 Plus is the power supply and electronics are inside a case. If you just stick the printer in a box it will overheat. Instead, we custom designed an air scoop that brings in cold air to the power supply and electronics, keeping them cool no matter the temperature inside the enclosure. The airflow keeps a mild negative pressure while maintaining good temperatures for both PLA and ABS.
The one weird thing about the Ender 5 Plus is the placement of the spool holder on the back. We designed three different prototypes, each trying to make it easier depending on how you like to access the printer. If you've got enough room to walk behind the printer there's a large access door to load and unload filament or work on the extruder. If you don't, we made the front door tall enough with enough clearance that you can easily access the bed OR replace the filament from that direction as well.
Direct Drive Conversions
Lots of customers are modifying their Ender 5 Plus printers, and we've designed this enclosure with that in mind. There is plenty of room at the top of all sorts of 3rd party hot ends that those from Bondtech and MicroSwiss. But you'll definitely want to read this discussion of the ins and outs of using an enclosure with an H-frame printer converted to direct drive.
Advantages of adding a 3DUPfitters enclosure:
Better quality prints because the ambient temperature is controlled
Keeps the power supply cool while the interior is hot enough for consistent prints with advanced material
More flexibility to print different types of filaments, including ABS
Optional fume filter or vent to the outside (both sold separately)
Thick 6mm acrylic doors and optional 6mm sides and top
The enclosure works by retaining the heat from the bed to bring the ambient temperature up high enough so that ABS and other filaments that expand when they cool are stabilized. If your main concern is the smell of melting plastic, it can be mitigated using an optional carbon filter. But if you are more interested in improving overall indoor air quality, a better solution is to vent to the outside via a hose. (not included). If you just want the highest possible enclosure temperature for ABS just put on the included air vent cover and it'll heat up as hot as possible.
Internal temperatures during printing with the fan turned on with a room temperature of 72F.
ABS is 43C/109F PLA is 32C/91F
3D Print Your Own Connectors. Or Not.
A lot of customers prefer to print their own connector pieces themselves. We get it: you've got a great 3D printer, and it is itching to print things. No problem! The kit includes the STLs for all 3D printed parts. Typically it takes about 48 hours to print everything you'll need with a .4mm nozzle and .2mm layer height.
On the other hand, if you purchase the optional connector kit, all parts are 3D printed in the best quality American-made ABS. It not only will withstand the heat year after year, but it's also one of the most rigid plastics to add that will make the enclosure sturdier. We proudly use the best ABS filament you can buy from Atomic Filament in Indiana.
DON'T USE PLA!
If you still want to print your own parts, just remember that temperatures inside an enclosure will melt PLA, so you will get the best results with printing parts in a high-quality ABS, ASA, or Nylon. The catch-22 is you need an enclosure to print ABS! If you don't already have an enclosure, you can make do with PETG. Just keep in mind that PETG is more flexible and will make the entire enclosure less rigid than if you had used ABS.
Pro Quality American Made Acrylic
The panels are made in a factory in Ohio and cut on an American-built industrial laser, and then flat-packed for your assembly. All you need for assembly is just a hex wrench and a small Philips head screwdriver. (not included.)
The Ender 5 Plus is too large of a 3D printer for an all 3mm enclosure.
6mm Front, 3mm Sides
The most popular model has a 6mm front and 3mm sides. The thicker front is a big improvement for the door. This configuration works great for customers who expect more heavy use such as libraries or schools.
6mm Front and Top, 3mm Sides
If you want to use 3Kg+ spools on top of the enclosure then the 6mm top upgrade is a good idea. This is the configuration we use in our print farm and it works great.
If you want to gain a couple of degrees of heat retention or intend to move your enclosure around a lot you can't go wrong with the 6mm all-around option.