[Pictured with 80mm to 4 inch angled hose adapter and temperature gauge, both sold separately. The 3D printer is not included either.]
Our Prusa XL enclosure is finally ready to crank out reliable ABS parts and print PLA with no fumes. With the fan off, in a 72F room, the interior temperatures were getting up to 100F, which is a sweet spot for ABS between keeping the plastic stable and not causing the hot end to clog.
The design approach was to fit the enclosure directly around the frame, with the filament spools on the outside. This minimizes size and reduces the amount of acrylic. Because of the height of the hot end tubes, the top is quite tall, measuring 35" in height. The handle is injected molded in two-tone black and orange to go with Prusa colors.
For those who want to vent, we can custom place a hole of any size in any location for whatever type of venting or filtering system you want. The default placement was intended to facilitate airflow through the overhang in the back, through most of the enclosure, and out the bottom. Some customers are concerned about heat loss, but it makes little difference in inside temperatures. Most temperature loss in acrylic enclosures is through conduction of the sides. With a steady pressure, i.e., the fan is off, the pressure on the inside equalizes with the outside, so the heated air does not escape.
Advantages of a 3DUPfitters Enclosure
More flexibility to print different types of filaments, including ABS
Optional fume filter or vent to the outside improves indoor air quality (both sold separately)
A controlled temperature creates better prints
The enclosure kit works by retaining the bed's heat to bring the ambient temperature up high enough, stabilizing ABS and other filaments that expand when they cool. The heated air circulates within the enclosure, providing a steading temperature. The expelled air can be vented into the room, sent through an optional air filter (not included), or vented to the outside via a hose. (not included)
Note: the only downside to the enclosure is it interferes with the storage of the calibration screw, which will need to be stored somewhere else.
3D Print Your Own Connectors. Or Not.
A lot of customers prefer to print their connector pieces themselves. We get it: you've got a great 3D printer which is itching to print things. No problem! The kit includes the STLs for all 3D printed parts like corner connectors, knobs, vents, etc. Typically it takes about 48 hours to print everything you'll need with a .4mm nozzle and .2mm layer height.
On the other hand, if you purchase the optional connector kit, all parts are 3D printed in the best quality American-made ABS. It not only will withstand the heat year after year, but it's also one of the most rigid plastics to add that will make the enclosure sturdier. We proudly use the best ABS filament you can buy from Atomic Filament in Indiana.
DON'T USE PLA!
If you still want to print your own parts, just remember that temperatures inside an enclosure will melt PLA, so you will get the best results with printing parts in a high-quality ABS, ASA, or Nylon. The catch-22 is you need an enclosure to print ABS! If you don't already have an enclosure, you can make do with PETG. Just keep in mind that PETG is more flexible and will make the entire enclosure less rigid than if you had used ABS.
Pro Quality American Made Acrylic
The panels are made in a factory in Ohio and cut on an American-built industrial laser, and then flat-packed for your assembly. All you need for assembly is just a hex wrench and a small Philips head screwdriver. (not included.)
Internal temperatures vary depending on the ambient room temperature outside the enclosure as well as where you measure the temperature. We use these enclosures to print both PLA and ABS daily, so rest assured the temperatures are "safe" to use.