If you've never seen the CR-10/CR-10 S5 (500x500x500mm) in person before, it is an enormous printer. Its the largest bed-slinging RepRap clone you can buy, hands down. But like all of its smaller siblings, it lacks one of the things that separates a good printer from a great printer: an enclosure. The problem is the printer is so large, the same enclosure design that works for the result CR-10 doesn't work here. For starters, the 1/8" acrylic isn't sturdy enough for a box that large, so we doubled its thickness to 1/4". This unfortunately doubles the price of the acrylic, as well as the weight, but it is extra sturdy and durable for industrial and educational use.
More reasonably priced is the the 1/4" furniture grade birch plywood, which you can see in the pictures. It is strong enough to work great, but can warp over time at this size, so extra connectors were added to keep everything straight. Another problem is the front is no longer a convenient way to feed filament since the printer is so deep. Instead, a second side door has been added at just the right location to be convenient.
If you've already purchased a CR-10 S5, perhaps you're aware that the heater bed only covers 300x300mm of the 500x500mm bed, and doesn't get hot enough to heat the bed high enough to print ABS, let alone heat up the enclosure. Getting the most out of the printer/enclosure combination may require replacing the heater bed and possibility an additional heat source such as a reptile heater or other DIY solutions.
Adding a 3D•Upfitters enclosure provides many benefits:
More flexibility to print different types of filaments, including ABS
Better quality prints because the ambient temperature is controlled
Fume filter to reduce smell or vent to the outside (sold separately)
Sturdy, thick, high-grade acrylic doors that allow easy access to the printer bed
One unique feature of this enclosure it avoids the side slit most DIY enclosures have. While a slit is easy to design, the volume of the CR-10 is so large it can't maintain temperatures when there's a top-to-bottom hole in one side. Instead, there is a custom-designed filament guide that gently redirects filament from the top-mount spool holder, optionally through the runout sensor included with the CR-10S, and into the extruder. This mechanism is easily avoided if you've converted your printer to direct drive. Since many people prefer direct drive with the CR-10 design, the top comes with a slit to enable printing the full height of the printer.
The wooden version comes in 1/4 unfinished furniture grade birch plywood for you to finish as you like. The wood is unfinished, and needs to be sealed on both sides with paint, varnish and/or polyurethane. Note that since wood doesn't let in light the product is shown with LED lighting that is not included, but can be easily added.
Not included is extended cables to allow the full travel to the very top of the printing range. Unfortunately the cables that come with it are too short, but there are cable extenders available all over eBay or Amazon.
How its Built
All of the plastic parts are 3D printed in ABS to withstand the heat from the enclosure, printed as much as possible on the Fusion3D F400, but also on upgraded FT-5 and CR-10 printers. The panels are cut on a CNC or laser and then flat packed for your assembly. All you need for assembly is just a hex wrench and a small philips head screwdriver. (not included.)
The outside venting system will send potentially dangerous and definitely odorous fumes outside. We supply the fan and 4" dryer hose adapter, you get the rest of the parts from your local hardware store.
Interior LEDs (as pictured in the wood & acrylic version renderings) will make it easier to see prints inside the wood version.